SRF Ball Joint & Bracket Replacement

Dang that don't look right? A tweaked ball joint or ball joint bracket can occur due to contact, an off track excursion or hitting the curbing hard. It is pretty straight forward to replace only requiring a few wrenches and simple tools. Ok lets get started replacing the ball joint and bracket.

Tools and Equipment Needed

  • Ball Joint - Enterprise PN: 1180089-1 / Moog K3082
  • Ball Joint Bracket - Enterprise PN: 280095A
  • Cotter Pin
  • Two 1/2 inch wrenches (ratcheting will speed things up)
  • 3/4 inch wrench
  • 3/4 inch deep socket at ratchet
  • 19mm deep socket
  • Pliers
  • Rubber mallet
  • Impact driver (optional)
  • Breaker bar (optional)

Ball Joint & Bracket Replacement

Brake the lug nuts loose using the 19mm socket and breaker bar or impact but don't remove yet.

Jack the front of the car in the air and put it on a low jack stand.

With the front in the air, undo the lug nuts and remove the wheel placing it out of the way.

Using the 3/4 wrench, socket and impact, remove the lower and upper bracket bolts. The lower control will fall due to the weight of the upright and brake, support it to not over load or bind the rod ends.

Use the two 1/2 inch wrenches, undo the 4 upper bolts on the bracket separating it from the ball joint. Remove the tweaked bracket.

Remove the cotter pin using the needle nose pliers and undo the castle nut. If the ball joint doesn't fall out of place, tap it will the rubber mallet to remove.

Ensure the new ball joint (Enterprise PN: 1180089-1) has grease and the dust boot is not cracked.

Install the ball joint and use the castle nut to tighten in place. Take note of the orientation the curved side should be facing out away from the car.

Torque the castle nut into place and install the cotter pin. Bend the tabs of the cotter pin around or over the castle nut.

Place the new bracket (Enterprise PN: 280095A) up against the ball joint and slide one bolt and nut it in place to hold it there. You can then continue and put the remaining bolts in place and torque all four down. Make sure you include the lock washers.

Lift the upright assembly into place and slide the upper bolt in and nut in place. The nylock nuts can get worn out over time if it looks old and tired replace it. Then slide the lower bolt in. Tighten both bolts in place using the 3/4 wrench, socket and impact.

Install the wheel back onto the hub and torque the lug nuts to 55 ft-lbs.

You should now check the alignment on the car as the caster, camber and toe may have changed depending how the bracket and ball joints were tweaked.

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James Chartres

San Jose, CA