To ensure smooth operations of the Spec Racer Ford brake calipers it is a good idea to replace the pins and bushings at the same time. The brass bushings will wear over time enlarging the hole. The pins also get worn down, making them undersized with time. This wear can result in excessive play in the brake calipers and dragging brakes.
The other problem can be the mushrooming or expansion of the pin end caused by over tightening and squashing the pins when re-installing the brake caliper. This mushrooming can result in the pin getting stuck in the caliper and making it hard to remove. Regular off-season maintenance of the bushings and pins can ensure clean even operation of the brakes and avoid a dragging or sticking bake caliper.
Tools & Equipment
- Brake Caliper Pins - Enterprise PN: 800314
- Brake Caliper Bushings - Enterprise PN: 1196185A
- Circlip Pliers
- Needle Nose Pliers
- 10mm Deep Socket
- 3/8th Drive Ratchet
- Magnetic Parts Tray (optional)
Replacing the Brake Caliper Pins & Bushings
The most important thing to know is there are 3 different sizes of brake caliper pins and bushing. Mixing and matching pins and bushings can cause issues such as excessive movement or the most obvious the pin not fitting through the hole. To simplify things it is often a good idea to replace all your pins & bushings at once and then continue using that size always thus avoiding any potential mismatch issues.
First thing to do is loosen the lug nuts. Then Jack Up the Car and get it in the air. Remove the wheels so you can access the brake calipers.
Using the 10mm socket and ratchet loosen and remove the old brake caliper pins. I use a magnetic parts tray to hold all the pieces in as I go. Lift the caliper up and out of the way to easily access the brake caliper bushings.
Use the circle pliers to remove the circlips holding the old bushings in place. This can be a little fiddly. I found it easier to hold the circlip with the needle nose pliers. The needle nose pliers helps to hold the circlip in place while you widen the circlip and lift it out of the way.
Here you can see the circlip and the old bushing. The bushing has a wider flange on the front and the circlip slots into the groove and clamps the bushing in place. You can also see the wear on the old pins.
With the old bushings removed the caliper is bare.
Insert the new bushing and then position the circlip into the groove using the pliers. You will find it is a lot easier inserting the circlips then taking them out.
With the new bushing in place you can see the position of the circlip in the groove.
Continue putting both bushings back in place.
Slide the caliper back around the brake pads.
Insert the brake caliper pins and start engaging the threads by hand.
Using the 10mm socket and ratchet, tighten the pins into position. Do not over tighten as you can mushroom the ends of the pins.
Before heading out on track, make sure the brakes are operating smoothly and without any hang ups.
If you are performing seasonal maintenance you might also consider rebuilding the brake calipers by replacing the caliper seals at the same time.